Le Select

504 North Wells Street, Chicago, IL, 60654
Price: $$$$$

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Le Select

Le Select - Chicago

Le Select is the result of a working union between Danny Rose, an born-in-Chicago chef with restaurants in Paris and New York, and the BOKA Restaurant Group, one of the most consistently successful restaurant groups in the city. Some may know Rose from his Michelin-starred Le Coucou in New York, but it seems like only a matter of time before his name will become as well-known in his hometown.

Let's start by talking about the elephant in the room, which is...the room itself. Le Select is a stunningly beautiful space (housed in a thoroughly renovated Sushi Samba), centered around a central dining room with plush banquettes and lamps and fixtures that seems pulled out of a Lautrec painting. There are some traditional starters (e.g., duck rillettes and vol au vent, a puff pastry filled with eggplant, a light way to begin your dinner). The salads, too, are solidly in the French tradition, including salade Nicoise and salade Lyonnaise, two classics.

For your entree, there are a lot of spectacular choices. Of course, you may want to ease into dinner with the traditional oysters, here all East Coast and served with mignonette, shrimp or steak tartare. The steak au poivre (a twelve-ounce New York strip with green pepper corns, cognac and cream) is getting a lot of attention, as has the choucroute Strasbourgeoise, a beautiful serving of sauerkraut, smoked sausage, veal boudin, braised pork belly, and knockwurst.

To end the meal, the Robb Report tells us that "Desserts, from the Boka pastry director Casey Doody, similarly hew to the classics: Crème caramel, eclairs and profiteroles all make an appearance."

Before or after dinner, relax in the casual elegance of Bar 504, which serves a range of classic cocktails and (as you might expect) a great many excellent wines, with over a dozen available by the glass. If you like, there is a menu available in Bar 504, so you can have a comfortable dinner or just a bite or two in this more casual lounge.