The Year of Mike Sheerin
He also announced he would take the role of executive chef at Embeya
Everybody loves a comeback. Just look at the years-long fanfare following the demise and subsequent renaissance of Britney Spears. Right here in Chicago, we’re in the midst of one of the greatest culinary renaissances, happening to one of our most promising chefs. This isn’t to suggest that Mike Sheerin self-imploded like Britney, but the chef definitely had his fair share of drama in recent years (see: departures from Trenchermen and Cicchetti). Now, 2015 is truly shaping up to be the year of Sheerin.
Following his seemingly abrupt exit from Cicchetti, Sheerin’s first announcement came earlier this year in the form of a dumpling. To be precise, Sheerin was planning a dumpling restaurant called Packed for Hyde Park, a bit of a far cry from his background at places like Blackbird and Trenchermen. The surprising announcement signaled and affirmed the uprising of Hyde Park as a dining destination, as well as a new career era for the talented chef. “Dumplings reimagined” became the promising tagline for Packed, where Sheerin is working to showcase the international mainstay in a variety of contemporary new ways. Unlike typical dim sum or empanadas, Packed will feature outre creations like Reuben dumplings and broccoli dumplings in black sesame wrappers.
In case that wasn’t enough, while Sheerin was teasing his new dumpling endeavor, he also announced he would take the role of executive chef at Embeya. On the heels of a rather messy departure from opening chef Thai Dang, diners didn’t know the fate of the stylish, contemporary Asian restaurant in the West Loop. But in the hands of Sheerin, it’s safe to say Embeya is in good hands. Especially when he’s char-grilling beef jerky, making burgers on grilled steam buns, and serving up killer seafood stews. It’s quite impressive that Sheerin is able to do double duty so well, operating a full-service restaurant kitchen while working to open a fast-casual concept on another side of town.
What’s even more impressive is that he also found time to revamp a Lakeview tavern. Along with friend Ryan Holden, Sheerin has gone even more casual with Trinity Bar, an Irish staple on North Halsted Street that the duo has been revitalizing. After the bar fell into hard times a few years back, Sheerin sought to bring it back to life, keeping the name in tact and updating the concept inside and out. The Irish soul is still going strong, but Sheerin has been raising the bar on this particular brand of bar food. Expect Irish staples like a burger with Irish cheddar, and fish & chips.
- Matt Kirouac