Sweet of the Week: Drumstick at Homestead on the Roof
When it comes to scream-inducing ice cream, the ones that elicit the shrillest cries are the ones entrenched in childhood memories. Beyond the standard scoop of chocolate or vanilla, beyond even banana splits and root beer floats, there are the frozen desserts rooted in sweet lore. Something as simple as a Choco Taco, or a chocolate-dipped frozen banana. Of course, the king of old-school frozen treats may very well be the almighty Drumstick. The good old fashioned formula of ice cream-filled waffle cone dipped in chocolate is hard to beat, no matter the haute pedigree of pastry chefs whipping up their own housemade ice creams. The best of both worlds is when a pastry chef has the idea to tackle nostalgia head-on and create their own version of such old-school novelties. Such is the case with the new "frozen treats" menu at Homestead on the Roof. Here, chilly desserts like re-invented Drumsticks share menu space with dessert originals like lemon churros cherry-buttermilk sherbet.
The handiwork of pastry chef Chris Teixeira and chocolatier Ian Regino, the frozen treats at Homestead do a standup job as an honest homage to simple childhood treats, elevating the template enough for the adult palate without altering the timeworn, traditional appearance or composition. The formula is the same: waffle cone filled with ice cream and nuts, dunked in chocolate that forms a frozen shell over top. Except the difference between these and the kind you'll find at the convenience store is that every morsel is made in-house, from the aromatic waffle cone to the rich chocolate shell. Each cone is stuffed with vanilla ice cream, striated with a layer of crunchy, buttery hazelnuts. The top layer is a scoop of Nutella ice cream, which gets crowned with chocolate. It's a childhood favorite re-defined, and it's a dessert that can transcend generations.
- Matt Kirouac