Sweet of the Week: Affogato at Nico Osteria

A special thing happens when espresso is splashed over ice cream. Vastly superior to any fizzy float, affogatos are the quintessetial "ice cream immersed in liquid" dessert, especially when crafted by talented pastry chefs such as Amanda Rockman. Of all her wondrous desserts at Nico Osteria, her affogato program stands out as a star. No pastry chef in Chicago is as committed to highlighting affogatos as Rockman is. Before she started showcasing them, there weren't many haute Italian desserts beyond outre versions of tiramisu. Now, they take the spotlight at Nico Osteria in an array of uncommon flavor combinations. The one I sampled, and my new favorite thing pertaining to ice cream in general, is the espresso and cardamom sweet cream ice cream.


Affogato at Nico
(Affogato at Nico Osteria)


Affogato is the greatest, most delicious juxtaposition of hot and cold, proving that when combined thoughtfully, the pairing can be astounding and memorable. When waiters at Nico gingerly drizzle hot espresso over a trifecta of perfectly scooped cardamom sweet cream ice cream, it tugs my heartstrings. Served in delicate little metal ice cream cups, the dessert was the most memorable part of a recent meal at Nico, and considering how excellent the meal was on the whole, that's really saying something. The ice cream is fragrant and bright, just sweet enough to temper the bitter bite of the warm espresso. As it all slowly melts together, it forms one toasty milkshake-like amalgam, interspersed with spice and cream. Rockman also makes unconventional affogatos such as Prosecco with apricot and burnt honey ice cream, Chinotto with fior di latte ice cream, and hot buttered rum with maple ice cream. But the classic espresso combo has my heart.


- Matt Kirouac

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