An Homage to Pigs in Blankets

Pigs-in-blankets and I go way back. Actually, most people could probably say the same thing. Right up there with deviled eggs and seven-layer dip, pigs-in-blankets are some of the most nostalgic and quintessentially Americana party snacks. Growing up, there was nary a family party without sheathed sausages (there is no way to word that without sounding racy), and I'm glad for it. They remain one of my favorite foods, but rather than hobnob at awkward family gatherings, I can just visit one of several restaurants around Chicago serving variations on pigs-in-blankets. From the more traditional party snack-esque versions to adaptations that are almost unrecognizable, restaurants are doing some whimsical things with blanketed pigs.


Let's start with my favorite pig-in-a-blanket in town, and the one that seems to me to be the most traditional, albeit far better than those wrapped in Pillsbury. I'm talking about the hot links at Bangers & Lace. Really, there could not be a more appropriate place for pigs-in-blankets than Bangers & Lace, a bar whose menu is a veritable sausage fest. Okay, so the pigs-in-blankets don't go by that name on the menu, but rest assured the hot links are as piggy and blankety as they come. They're finger-sized Louisiana-style hot links (read: spice!) enrobed in puff pastry and served with Shark hot sauce and sour cream. The sausages are a tad longer and spicier than traditional pigs-in-a-blankets, but otherwise it's almost startling how similar they are to those of my youth. The puff pastry is spot-on, wrapped sufficiently around the sausages without being too heavy or detracting from the meat. I would expect nothing less from a place with "banger" in its title.


The award for prettiest pig-in-a-blanket goes to Frog N Snail, which serves the mini morsels at brunch. The dainty sausages are neither frog nor snail (I'm somewhat thankful for that), but rather pungent, plump little Italian sausages. They're bundled in crispy croissant dough, which adds a heinous amount of richness to an already decadent little snack. They're served over a pile of fennel scrambled eggs (fenneled eggs?) and a zesty piperade. The whole thing tastes sort of like a croissant breakfast sandwich from a certain fast food place that rhymes with Funkin Fonuts, with the added bonus of the croissant actually being a croissant and not the consistency of a down comforter.



(Hulking pig-in-a-blanket at Girl & The Goat)


My favorite pig-in-a-blanket that is unabashedly un-gourmet to the point of being a middle finger to "modern" variations is the breakfast version at Delish Diner. I love this Wicker Park diner for its legitimately old fashioned diner vibe. Despite the surge of chef-driven diners in recent years, few capture the authenticity of the vintage diners one would stumble upon while driving through New Jersey. Delish Diner captures that essence. The menu is very no-frills, and it genuinely reminds me of this diner I used to go to in northern New Hampshire growing up called Bobby's Girl. Sigh. As nostalgic as this place feels for me, their pigs-in-blankets are a version that was new to me. These are the kinds of pigs-in-blankets made by rolling breakfast sausage in pancakes, which is something I never experienced before (damn you, Bobby's Girl). So now I'm making up for lost time, drowning the pancake-wrapped sausages in maple syrup and eating as much as humanly possible. Delish indeed.


The most outre version of a pig-in-a-blanket can occasionally be found at Girl & The Goat as part of the daily bread service. This is the largest pig-in-a-blanket I have ever seen. It's more like an entire pig herd wrapped in a tent. It's a loaf of rich, dense bread stuffed with ham and served on a cutting board with mustard butter and pea puree. As with all breads, it is not offered regularly, so it's a gamble as to if it will be available or not, so just cross your fingers and forewarn your arteries.

 

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