A Sure Sign Spring Is Finally Here: It's Ramps Season!

The Lobby at the Peninsula adds ramps to its signature whole roast chicken. (Photo: Peninsula Chicago)

 

I never quite understood why Chicago chefs were so obsessed with ramps season until I went on a Green City Market shopping excursion last winter with MK’s Executive Chef Erick Williams. Ramps, or wild leeks, exist during a limited time during spring, and chefs typically use the seasonal ingredient in place of garlic or onions. But one of the reasons why chefs like Williams get excited about its annual debut is because it brightens up dishes.

“By February and March, most of us are so tired of looking at those drab colors of turnips, sunchokes, carrots and beets—which happen to be the only vibrant colors,” Williams said. “When they say chefs are excited about ramps in spring it’s because they’re green and they’re delicious. It’s the first green thing to come out of the ground and we are really excited that spring is finally here!”


MK Executive Chef Erick Williams (Photo: MK Chicago)

 

When selecting ramps, he chooses the ones that are firm with bright green leaves. They should not be wilted. He also instructs the home cook to clean them by running cool water on the roots to remove dirt, then store in dry paper towels and secure plastic bags.  

Williams utilizes ramps in a number of ways on MK’s spring menu, including gently smoking them on the grill and mixing with wild mushrooms and white asparagus. He's also created a ramp compound butter that will be used to finish pastas .

 

Here are other ways chefs are using ramps this season:

  • Acadia launches brunch at the end of April, and ramps are used on the opening menu. Ryan McCaskey has created a juicy morel mushroom tart that’s accompanied by pickled ramps, garlic scapes and pea tendrils.

 

  • In May, look for deca RESTAURANT + BAR’s Mark Payne to use ramps during the month-long “Soft Shell Crab: 31 Days, 31 Ways.” One of his dishes will be pan-seared soft shell crab “a la meuniere” with grilled ramps. Call the restaurant for schedule.  

 

  • Frontier‘s Brian Jupiter—best known for his obsession with wild game—tones it down a bit for this seasonal seafood dish. He’s doing a seared halibut that’s amped up with ghost shrimp, morel mushroom ravioli, charred ramps and tomato confit.

 

Frontier's seared halibut is enhanced by charred ramps. (Photo: Frontier)

 

  • The Lincoln Square sensation Gather presents different parts of the ramps in three different ways on the “Gather and Share” section of the menu. Chef Ken Carter says that they’re meant to be enjoyed as spreads. The first preparation, which uses roasted ramp stems, is similar to chutney and arrives in a Mason jar. Carter also created sautéed ramp greens and pickled ramp stems for more savory spreads. Each are offered with house-made, whole-grain apple mustard, ramp ranch dipping sauce and fresh-baked rosemary focaccia bread.

 

  • The whole roast chicken for two is one of the signature dishes on Lee Wolen’s menu at The Lobby at the Peninsula Chicago. To keep the item fresh and light for spring, he incorporates seasonal ingredients such as ramps. Other additions to the dish are morels and marbled potatoes.

 

  • During last year’s ramp season, James O'Donnell (Michael Jordan’s Steakhouse) took his family on an expedition where they helped dig Michigan ramps for the restaurant and home. This year, he’s dressing up filet mignon with ramps in three ways—pickled, charred ramp butter and ramp puree. It would be neat if they set aside some of that charred ramp butter for eggs and toasted bread.

 

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