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Merlo pasta

Merlo’s bigoli with duck.

Anatra e bigoli, this weekend’s special at Merlo on Maple on the Gold Coast starts with fat bigoli pasta, a traditional noodle from the Veneto region of Italy. It dates at least to early 16th century, when it was mentioned in Libreto de Tutte le Cose che se Manzano by Johannes Michael Savonarola. Chef Silvia Marani dresses the pasta with richly flavored duck from La Belle Farm in Sullivan County, New York along with celery, onions, carrots, and Valpolicella wine.