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Eat this! Pigs’ trotters, connoisseurs’ pork


Chef Pierre Marco White prepares his signature stuffed pigs’ trotters.

What it is: A pig’s trotter is an unctuous, gelatinous cut of pork.

Where it comes from: The trotter is the foot of a pig. It has traditionally been popular peasant food both in Europe and the United States, where pigs’ feet have been a staple of Southern cuisine and soul food.

What to do with it: Pickling is perhaps the most widespread cooking method for pigs’ trotters, but they are also smoked, barbecued, stewed and jellied. Possibly the most famous gourmet recipe for pig’s feet is a braised, stuffed version from British chef Marco Pierre White, adapted from a creation of his French-born mentor Pierre Koffman.

Chef Michael Lachowicz of Michael, his namesake classic French restaurant in Winnetka, has been serving it lately to a few connoisseurs.

“I don’t think many people are going to order a stuffed pig’s foot with sweetbreads and morel mushrooms,” Lachowicz told us, discussing his ironical reaction to the current pork trend with the Chicago Sun-Times, and we doubt any of our readers are insane enough to try making this at home, but here’s a how to do it.

Better you should get Lachowicz to make it for you. Given that it’s a three-day process, we suggest you make reservations and order ahead.
 

Michael Lachowicz, chef and owner of Restaurant Michael in Winnetka, with stuffed pig's trotter with vegetables and morel mushrooms. (Tom Cruze/Sun-Times)

Michael Lachowicz, chef and owner of Restaurant Michael in Winnetka, with stuffed pig's trotter with vegetables and morel mushrooms. (Tom Cruze/Sun-Times)

 
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