Sweet of the Week: Rice Pudding at Svea

Rice pudding, against all childhood odds, is one of my all-time favorite desserts. Bar none. I remember scoffing audibly at my dad when he would purchase rice pudding at the grocery store when I was young. I thought the idea of rice in pudding sounded revolting, considering most of my experience with rice at that point was confined to pilaf and fried Chinese food. So naturally, the idea of rice for dessert was not appealing, to say the least. But like many childhood taboos-turned-obsessions, I quickly developed a love for the dish after finally amassing enough curiosity to try it. Flecked with plump raisins and a dusting of cinnamon, rice pudding turned out to be a masterpiece. Before long, I was the one begging my parents for more, and greedily shoveling spoonfuls into my mouth at the refrigerator. We've come a long way, rice pudding and I have. And nowadays, since it's sadly such a rarity on restaurant menus, I light up with glee anytime I get the opportunity to order some. I was presented with just such a fortune at Svea recently, capping off a Swedish brunch in the best way possible. 

 

Svea
Rice pudding at Svea



At Andersonville's Svea, one of the last remaining Swedish relics of the heavily Scandinavian neighborhood, the menu and motif are both old-school, kitschy, and deeply comforting. The squishy counter stools and vintage Nordic paraphernalia dotting the walls make for a cozy backdrop in which to tear into Swedish sausages, gravy-laden meatballs, and eggy pancakes. But no matter what route you take here, be sure you wind up with a plate of rice pudding in front of you at meal's end. Served modestly and simply on a bright blue plate, the pudding is a hefty slab stacked high. It sports two layers of textures here, one being a somewhat crunchy al dente rice "crust" and the other being a creamy, airy, and sugary patina. Together, they meld to create a unique, well-balanced bite of pudding. The icing on the cake here, true to Swedish form, is the dollop of tangy lingonberry jam glazed over top. 

- Matt Kirouac

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