Chicago Brunch Bites: Commonwealth Tavern and Cicchetti

In this week's batch of Chicago brunch bites, brunch beckons at Commonwealth Tavern and Cicchetti.

(Poached eggs Rialto at Cicchetto. Credit: Taryn Rosenthal)

While much of Roscoe Village's brunch scene is dominated by garish kiddie spots such as Orange and Kitsch'n on Roscoe, there's a newcomer serving up hearty morning fare with some serious precision. The menu is still family-friendly and approachable, but it's nice to see a Roscoe Village brunch menu that doesn't pander to the green eggs and ham contingent. Plus, Commonwealth serves brunch Monday through Sunday from 9:00 a.m. until 2:00 p.m., which is pretty gosh darn nice. The brunch menu is a sensible medley of breakfast and lunch classics, jazzed up with some cheffy accoutrements and techniques thanks to Kevin Church. For instance, a chicken sandwich made with plancha-grilled chicken and bacon jam, barbecued shrimp and grits with etouffee mushroom ragout, a seasonal vegetable omelette with fontina fonduta, and eggs Benedict with ham, spinach, and béarnaise sauce. Bless you, Commonwealth.

While Commonwealth Tavern fine-tunes the classic American brunch rubric, Cicchetti veers off in an Italian direction. With weekend brunch poised to launch April 12 and 13, the Venetian-inspired restaurant features the morning-friendly handiwork of acclaimed chef Mike Sheerin and his dexterous partners in culinary crime: Phil Rubino and Sarah Jordan. Together, they're cooking up poached eggs Rialto with house-baked English muffins, seared porchetta, poached eggs, and chorizo Mornay; ciabatta bread French toast with caramel apple compote; baked egg Venetian strata; and fried chicken Mercato with crispy fried boneless chicken thighs adjoined by polenta and salsa verde. Don't forget the beverages courtesy of bartender Daniel Casteel. The Palmer Punch needs to be in your mouth, what with its tempting assemblage of Green Dagon Tea, Smith & Cross rum, and fresh-squeezed lemonade. It promises to be the punch of the season.

- Matt Kirouac