Sweet of the Week: Sundae at Cicchetti a new Italian Restaurant

Leave it to Sarah Jordan to transform a tired Italian dessert into a feat of saccharine ingenuity. Tiramisu is generally about as exciting as tumbleweed in the desert, but thanks to her dexterous whimsy, Cicchetti turns tiramisu and time-worn Italian tradition on its head with a killer sundae. I'm not saying I detest tiramisu. I'd happily eat it if placed in front of me, it's just not something I would will to be in front of me. But when an adroit pastry chef such as Jordan takes the reins, it's a different story. The flavors in her adorable, decadent sundae scream "tiramisu!", but with a palpable sense of elegance and modernity. Cicchetti brings tiramisu into a new era of Italian desserts.

(Sundae at Cicchetti)

Of all the wonderful desserts on the menu at Cicchetti, a new Italian Restaurant Jordan's tiramisu sundae is the star. Not only does it look ravishing, but it tastes the part as well. She starts with tiramisu gelato, which is literally gelato made by folding crumbled bits of tiramisu into the mix. So basically you have gelato studded with tiramisu. That in and of itself is a game-changer, but she doesn't stop there, opting to outfit the creamy, tangy, espresso-y gelato with Fernet Branca Menta fudge, pistachio brittle, and Amarena cherries, each treacly morsel exploding with luscious flavor. Together, each bite indeed tastes like a handily deconstructed tiramisu, but not in a tacky way. Rather, Cicchetti's rendition feels and tastes like a thoughtful contemporary riff on a classic, proving that even the most dated desserts have the capacity to be delicious. Jordan reminds us all why society fell in love with tiramisu in the first place.

- Matt Kirouac