Butcher's Trio Bows at Fulton's on the River Restaurant

If you're having a hard time deciding which animal you'd like to eat for dinner, head to Fulton's on the River restaurant and partake in the glorious new Butcher's Trio. A veritable menagerie on a plate, this elegant trifecta exhibits executive chef's Kevin Schulz's dexterous capabilities with a plethora of proteins. He's like Noah, if Noah cooked the animals instead of stowing them on an ark. Available solely through the month of September, the trio is a can't-miss meal perfect for the foray into fall. 


The mantra for the trio is to showcase one four-legged animal, one two-legged animal, and one legless animal, aka seafood. Individual items are prone to change per the chef's whim, but inaugural preparations include a seared scallop with corn anglaise, fresh herbs, pickled beet, and milk-braised greens; buttermilk fried Cornish game hen with Robuchon potatoes and truffle gravy; and braised beef short rib with horseradish demi glace and brûléed red grapes over polenta cake. They're all served on an elongated plate, making for an easy segue from one to another. Each item is seamlessly paired with a small pour of wine, starting with a white with the seafood, a rosé for the game hen, and a red for the beef.


Despite the somewhat fierce moniker, the Butcher's Trio isn't terribly extravagant. Portions are perfectly sized so as to provide an ample taste of each component without bludgeoning guests into a food coma. When serving braised beef next to fried poultry, it helps to have a light hand. All elements are meticulously prepared, starting with a perfectly seared scallop sweetened up with some corn anglaise and enriched via some milky greens. The game hen looks like gourmet chicken nuggets, but tastes worlds better, with a crackly exterior crust giving way to succulent flesh just begging to be dredged through buttery potatoes. A smattering of freeze-dried corn kernels erupt with summery sweetness, serving to temper all that savory richness. The crown jewel is the beef, a sublime square of fork-tender meat that oozes braising liquid down into the polenta cake. Brûléed grapes round out the red wine-y flair in the meat quite nicely, especially when enjoyed with the accompanying glass of red wine.


Butcher's Trio
(Butcher's Trio at Fulton's on the River)

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