The Art of Chicken vs. Feed

When it comes to independent chicken shacks in Chicago (sorry, Harold's, we'll get to you another day), Feed has been the kingpin for years. Nestled on the brim of Humboldt Park, it's a charming little spot specializing in Southern-style comfort foods, with a focus on chicken. Then along comes The Art of Chicken, a polished new spot on Western Avenue that captures the chicken shack vibe with a bit more elegance (or as much elegance as one can muster in a shack). In many ways, the two spots are very similar. One could argue that Feed is the Madonna to The Art of Chicken's Lady Gaga. It's the standby vs. the newbie:


Feed
The Chicken: Feed offers some of the most affordable chicken in Chicago, with birds available by the quarter, half, or whole. Guests can also select whether they'd like dark meat or light meat. Chicken is primarily grilled, though they do offer fried chicken as an occasional special. Chicken sports a nice smoky flavor and it's supremely succulent throughout. No matter which way you approach it, things are gonna get messy. This is not a dainty meal.

The Sides: All orders of chicken can be supplemented with two sides, and there is plenty to choose from. Hot sides include mashed potatoes, collard greens, mac & cheese, and french fries. My favorites are fried okra and corn pudding, a sweeter, cakier alternative to grits. Each order of chicken comes with grilled flour tortillas, which seem inexplicable and unnecessary, but I always eat them anyway.

Ambience: Feed is an unabashed shack, complete with silly knick knacks, creaky tables, bright red walls, and an overarching vintage feel to it. The space radiates more Americana than grill smoke, and it genuinely feels like a chicken shack one might find off the beaten path in the South.


The Art of Chicken
(Feed. Photo by Feed)

 

The Art of Chicken
The Chicken: Flame-broiled chicken is the order of the day at Bucktown's The Art of Chicken. Diners have two options: El Jefe, chicken that's been marinated overnight in juices and spices, or Crazy Chico, the more herbaceous variety, also marinated overnight, albeit in a less spicy solution. Despite all this marinating, the chicken is not super juicy. Smaller morsels tend to dry out, and seasonings are a tad muted. It's still tasty chicken, though, and their portions rival those of a KFC family bucket. Like Feed, chicken is available by the quarter, half, or whole. 

The Sides: Accoutrements are basic, but executed very well. French fries and sweet potato fries are tender, well seasoned, and piled into bags in massive amounts. There's also corn on the cob, Spanish rice, steamed vegetables, mashed potatoes, and mac & cheese, which is kinda gluey. While Feed throws in tortillas, The Art of Chicken serves their chicken with warm pita. Fluffy and soft, it's a nice accompaniment.

Ambience: Here's where The Art of Chicken really excels. They do a nice job of capturing the shack essence while still managing to class it up. The space is extremely polished and comfortable, with great attention to detail poured into every element, from the wall decor to the tabletop salt and pepper shakers. I like the makeshift little library installed above the kitchen window, stocked with fake books about chicken. The wonky chicken character emblazoned all over the walls is a bit alarming, but charming in its silliness.


Art of Chicken
(The Art of Chicken. Photo by The Art of Chicken)

 

The Verdict
The Chicken: Feed has been grilling chicken for years, and practice clearly makes perfect, as their poultry is consistently tender, succulent, and delicious. in terms of chicken shacks, they are still unrivaled. 

The Sides: Though The Art of Chicken's warm pita outpaces Feed's tortillas, Feed wins the race with its variety of tasty, thoughtful side dishes. I would gladly eat their corn pudding any day of the week.

The Ambience: By compounding shack appeal with sleek design, The Art of Chicken is the victor here. They managed to pull off the difficult feat of modernizing a chicken shack while still keeping it humble and comfortable.

The Overall Winner: Feed still reigns supreme.

 

Who are Chicago’s BEST RESTAURANTS IN CHICAGO?

For more about Chicago Steaks see:  CHICAGO’S BEST STEAKS & STEAKHOUSES

Top